Ragù alla bolognese is probably the most disputed dish in Italy. Some say it should contain beef, pork and veal whilst others say it should only contain veal and maybe a little heart or chicken liver, but they agree to disagree on that point. The most disputed ingredient however is the tomato, for some, a little fresh tomato is allowed, for the rest it is absolutely taboo and the dispute will continue until the wine runs out. Never the less, they do agree that it should simmer for hours and it should not, under any circumstances, contain tomato paste, purée or any other form of tomato which ended its days in a carton, tin or tube.
As for spaghetti, well I wouldn’t mention it, unless of course you are somewhat of an adept at the kiss of life. The Italians eat it with tagliatelle.
In my recipe I don’t use minced veal because I find it rather difficult to get and I do smuggle in a little fresh chopped tomato because I like the streaks of colour which the skins lend to the dish. Having said all that, I bow my head to the bolognese and thank them for producing a dish, which nobody can agree upon, but is loved and enjoyed by so many children, and grown-ups, all over the world, with “shush!” Spaghetti or Tagliatelle.
- Add the olive oil to a saucepan and fry the mince until light brown in colour.
- Remove the mince and sauté the bacon together with the carrot, celery, onion and garlic until the onions are soft but not brown.
- Return the mince to the pot and add the wine. Bring to the boil and reduce until half the wine has evaporated.
- Add the beef stock, and the tomatoes together with a good grind of salt and pepper. Return to the boil, reduce the heat to low and simmer.
- When the sauce is simmering, add the puréed liver and stir quickly so it does not clump. Continue to simmer the sauce gently for at least 2 hours, adding a little water if necessary.
- When the sauce is ready season with freshly ground salt and pepper.
- Bring the pasta water to boil in a large pot and add the salt.
- Add the pasta to the pot and follow the instructions on the packet for the cooking time.
- When the pasta is cooked, strain it and return it to the pot. Add some of the sauce to the pot and toss well. Serve immediately and top up each plate with the remainder of the sauce.
Dicing: When dicing the carrot, onion, celery and garlic, dice them as finely as you can and then dice them again. They should barely visible in the cooked sauce.
Chicken Liver: Chicken liver is optional but it is one of the traditional ingredients and gives the sauce a light creamy texture. Using a sharp knife, chop the liver finely until it has turned into a purée. Add when the sauce is simmering and stir quickly so it disperses evenly and does not clump.
